Tide's Out, But Market's In

Only an hour's drive from Bangkok, Amphawa Floating Market has become an increasingly popular attraction among locals and tourists alike.

The fact that Klong Amphawa's water level is prone to falling drastically during low tide seems to cause little concern to visitors and customers, and the busy market has been running smoothly since August 2004.

The market attracts about 3,000 tourists per week, which generates a significant amount of income for traders and the local community.

The market, which opens during 5pm-8pm from Sunday until Friday, is the brainchild of Patcharadom Unsuwan, the mayor of Amphawa district. Mr Patcharadom said the fact that the water level of the canal fell from time to time was natural, since there are no floodgates to control the water level, unlike the Damnoen Saduak Floating Market in Ratchaburi.

"Floodgates would restrict the flow of water resulting in the water becoming putrid. That would have a negative effect on local residents and those producing fruit in the orchards, who rely on water from the canal.

In light of this, we prefer to have a natural flow of water," he said. About 80% of residents continued to use water from the canal for cooking and bathing, he said.

"Tourists may be a bit surprised by the low level of water, but they certainly appreciate our genuine floating market. A visit also allows them to gain experience of the traders' livelihoods and the community, which has hardly changed over the past few decades," said Mr Patcharadom, a native of Amphawa district.

The number of boats being used at the market varies greatly depending on the vendors and their commitments. Anywhere from 35 to 70 boats may be utilised by traders at any one time, Mr Patcharadom said.

"It is operated by people in the community and so our vendors may be housewives or people overseeing or working in the orchards," he said. "They offer delicious fresh or home-cooked products at competitive prices."

"Cultural tourism" is one area that the district, which covers more than 2.8km, hopes to benefit from. The district has over 390 canals, most of which have been well preserved.

About 50 years ago, Amphawa district was a major commercial hub, boasting a bustling pier. At the height of its popularity, about 30 gold shops were located along the 800m-long klong.

About 30 years ago, the construction of a road brought about a tremendous change in this small community. The pier was forced to close as people opted to switch to road transportation.

Beautiful colonial-style shophouses along the canal began losing their lustre and were gradually abandoned as locals headed for Bangkok in search of employment. With the help of the Danish International Development Agency, the community is ready to restore the shophouses. Under the assistance programme, owners of shophouses can receive a 50% subsidy for restoration work. So far, up to 30 shophouses have been restored.

Teacher Piengporn Chaiyawat lives in the area on a wooden raft built by her father, who immigrated from China.

"The floating market is essential to the community's revival," she said.

She said the community would have to make readjustments, but ought to maintain its unique identity, adding that the area was endowed with a rich culture and history. Unlike some other villages located near canals, the Amphawa community is proud of its history. King Rama II, the second king of the Chakri dynasty, was born in the area, while King Rama I used the area as a harbour during the war with Burma over two centuries ago.

The area has also spawned a number of popular musicians, including the Na Bangchang family, Eua Soonthorn-sanarn of Soontaraporn fame, vocalist Toon Thongjai, and Thai classical music maestro Sorn Silpabanleng (Luang Pradit Phairoh).

This month, the community is set to see the opening of a folk museum in an eye-catching shophouse. Charismatic landlady Payong Nakawarang, 75, donated the property to the community through the Chaipattana Foundation. Later this year, the community plans to turn another renovated shophouse into a homestay. Amphawa district is proving itself to be a source of great social and cultural interest, while the community has already proved itself to be a hive of creativity.